Posts Tagged ‘Alaska Highway’


Sunrise 5:50 a.m., Sunset 9:46 p.m.

We made it back to ‘Merica’!  Our ‘rule of thumb’ is to travel only 6 hours per day, however, today was 14 hours!  We left Teslin with the idea of stopping somewhere near the border at Beaver Creek, but our plan wasn’t God’s plan. 

We stopped at Johnson’s Crossing for a cinnamon roll.  We had read about this place in the Milepost.  What’s the Milepost?

Since 1947, this magazine has been published that gives minute details of the Alaska highway and other adventuresome routes.  It gives historical facts which is why I appear to know so much, mileage from one place to another, names of provincial or state campgrounds, RV parks, where to buy gas or diesel and which wildlife is more prevalent where.  Thus, Johnson’s Crossing to check out a more unique and quaint place to stay on our way back.  Teslin is nice, but it’s more of a truck stop park and we like the feel of the early lodges that have been in service for 70 years.  Yes, the cinnamon roll was delicious and Sandy, the owner was quite friendly.  I even found a novel in Hebrew at the book exchange.  Yes!  I love book exchanges.  I read a lot while we’re in our trailer and so when I finish one book, I look for a book exchange to get another.  I even got my husband reading and that is an amazing feat! 

From Johnson’s Crossing, we continued north toward Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon province.  Last year we went into this grand city to find a Walmart and with our big rig, the congestion was too much so we decided to forego that trip – and the Walmart was small with nothing it in.  A waste of time ….

Yukon River Bridge

One of my favorite spots on the Alcan is the Yukon River Bridge.  I’m not sure why except I love the color of the bridge and the peacefulness around it.  It’s also kind of a milestone of the trip to cross the Yukon River. 

Kluane Mountains

One of our goals to was to stop in Haines Junction for coffee at another quaint place that everyone who travels the Alcan speaks about.  Last year we vowed to return every time we passed through Haines Junction.  Then, last September, it was closed.  Today, it was closed, too.  It doesn’t open until May 1 and today is April 30.  So NO delicious baked goods (already had that cinnamon roll) and no coffee.  The St. Elias mountains at Haines Junction cannot be accurately described, but suffice it to say if I HAD to live in the Yukon Territory, it would be at Haines Junction: they have mountains, coffee, and a health food store.  What else is there?

We decided to continue on towards Beaver Creek.  The road goes through Kluane (kloo-WA-nee) National Park with its mountains, Dall sheep and frozen lake.  From Kluane, begins the dreaded 90 miles of frost heaves through Destruction Bay and Burwash Landing.  On our return trip last year, it seemed as though there was road work from the border through these little towns and so this year the heaves weren’t so destructive to our trailer.  This was the section of road that broke all the shelves in my pantry that needed to be rebuilt once we arrived in Cooper Landing. 

Frost heave sign along the highway

Knowing that all of the provincial campgrounds don’t open until May 11, we started to look for anyplace that may have RV sites.  All of the rest areas in the Yukon have signs that say ‘No Overnight Camping.’  With our rig, it’s difficult to go ‘off road’ so we need something that is less rustic.

We found the Pine Valley Bakery and Creperie to be open so we stopped to check it out.  It is run by a couple from France who moved to the Yukon 10 years ago.  We enjoyed a quiche and crepe, but their RV park was still closed as they had recent snow, fallen trees and no services.  We returned to our truck to drive the rest of the distance to Beaver Creek.  We saw a lynx, some swans and a bald eagle.  In the midst of caribou herds, moose and black bears coming out of hibernation, we saw none of them.  When we arrived in Beaver Creek, their campground was still full of snow.  We had to make the decision whether or not to hang out in their parking lot or drive another 2 hours to Tok, Alaska. With fully bellies and the sun setting at 9:30, we knew we could make the trek and still have daylight. 

ALASKA!  The border crossing was fun.  The patrolmen were quite talkative about life on the border from crazy people to moose to where they buy their food and how grateful they are that the Milepost removed their phone number from the magazine as they had thousands of calls last year from people asking about the weather! 

We continued to head north with views of the Wrangle mountains until we reached TOK, Alaska!  We’re settled in for the night drinking hot chocolate and reading (writing this blog).  Tomorrow we decide whether or not to take a side trip to Valdez – ONLY if there are RV parks open.  Otherwise, it’s on to Anchorage and the Kenai Penninsula!

©2018 Tentstake Ministries Publishing, all rights reserved.  No copying or reproducing of this article without crediting the author or Tentstake Ministries Publishing.



The Yukon

Sunrise 5:53 a.m., Sunset 9:44 p.m.

Crossing the border from British Columbia into the Yukon takes forever as it winds back and forth until crossing the Morley River.  Our first stop in the Yukon was for fuel at Contact Creek.  This is a small hut-like building that has been around for many years.  The owners moved from Florida and they are a bit ‘strange’ probably because they spend the winters in the middle of nowhere.  The owner told my husband that the temperatures got to -63 degrees this past winter so they probably have had years of cabin fever.  They have a gift shop that they never stock new items and everything is dusty, but that’s part of the charm of the surviving businesses on the Alcan.  They do have a book exchange which I used.  And, for those who care, their price of diesel was CHEAPER than anywhere else. 

Why Contact Creek?  When the Alaska Highway was being built, the construction was to be completed quickly.  Workers began from both ends: Fort Nelson and Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon. The point at which they converged was named Contact Creek. 

Backstory on the sign.  I really do not like the movie “Forrest Gump”.  I find it tedious and I don’t like it.  My son, for one of my birthdays, gave me the movie in a ‘box of chocolates’ along with a ‘Run Forrest Run’ license plate.  I have had the plate hanging in our trailer above our door and decided it would be perfect for hanging in the sign forest.  I put our names on it and the year 2018 and now it hangs at Watson Lake.

Between Watson Lake and Teslin, the views of the Cassiar Mountains become spectacular.  As there was a harsher winter and more snow than last year, these mountains are covered in snow.  We stopped at a rest stop for lunch with amazing views surrounding us. 

A couple of hours later, we arrived in Teslin, Yukon.  This is the heart of Tlingit country, a native tribe found in the Yukon and Alaska.   The Tlingits have a heritage center here, but it opens in June and closes in September before we pass through again.  Many of the natives still work at the same trades and crafts and it would be quite interesting to visit the center.  Last year when we stayed in Teslin we experienced a 6.4 and 6.2 earthquake that shook our trailer pretty hard.  Today, thus far, we’re the only ones in this park and we chose the first site that has a beautiful view of the Nitsulin Lake.  This year the lake is frozen over.  Perhaps a moose will skate by, who knows. 

For those who pray, keep our truck in prayer.  We are about 125 miles from any service stations.  Our truck needs to start tomorrow so we can head north toward the ‘dreaded’ Whitehorse and find a Ford dealer to deal with the ‘check engine’ light.  After Whitehorse, we will be continuing on toward our favorite place: Haines Junction and their infamous coffee shop. 

©2018 Tentstake Ministries Publishing, all rights reserved.  No copying or reproducing of this article without crediting the author or Tentstake Ministries Publishing.

Shabbat Shalom from Liard Hot Springs

Sunrise: 5:25 a.m.; Sunset 9:06 p.m.

We really needed a Shabbat and Liard won the toss.  We could relax in the hot springs and being early in the season, there would be fewer people in the campground.  We met some wonderful people in Dawson Creek (from Anchorage) and they arrived Friday evening at Liard along with two other couples from Ninilchik in the Kenai Peninsula.  Everyone also had ties to Colorado so soaking in the springs made for some fun conversation.  At the end the called us ‘Alaskans,’ lol.  One couple has a boat and fishes in Homer for halibut and expect to visit us at Cooper Creek. 

The first day at Liard was sunny and a balmy 50 degrees.  This type of weather heats our trailer very nicely which is needed as Liard has no hook-ups whatsoever – water, electric or sewer.  No issue for us boondockers, a warm trailer is cozier.  Saturday was a cloudy day and the temperature never got above 40 which made for a much cooler day.  After a breakfast of sourdough pancakes and our Torah study, we spent the rest of the day reading, eating a chocolate cake I decided to make,  along with another soak in the hot springs.  It was a very relaxing Sabbath and prepared us for today’s trek into the Yukon Territory.

We left Liard quite early in the morning hoping to see some wildlife.  Along the Liard River, where many trappers lost their lives in the harsh winters, bison tend to graze by the road.  The herds travel for miles and their ‘buffalo chips’ can be seen for miles as well. 

Vocabulary word for the day: Liard is French for ‘poplar’ as poplar trees line the Liard River Canyon

Tentstake Ministries Publishing, all rights reserved.  No copying or reproducing of this article without crediting the author or Tentstake Ministries Publishing.©2018

The Plague of Toad River

Sunrise 5:37 a.m.; Sunset 9:01 p.m. 

My husband and I were both ready to roll this a.m. and had the earliest start of our entire traveling experience: 8:00 a.m.  We were both also ready to be on the Alcan and going toward our destination in familiar territory. 

Because this is our second year to do the Alaska Highway, we are taking more time to stop and see those things we passed by last year.  It’s not that we didn’t want to stop, we just wanted to make the best time to Alaska.  This year, we have some time to spare and are taking our time. 

The Peace River Bridge is the longest span of bridge on the Alcan. 

Last year we stayed in Fort Nelson at the Triple ‘G’ RV park.  Though is was a nice place (had no water though), we arrived there so early in the day that we decided to travel further to the Toad River Lodge.  We needed to fuel up so we stopped at a Husky station.  The price of diesel per liter was $1.49 = 4.50 per gallon.  A little over the top and we were told it went down a couple of cents in the past few days. 

Leaving Fort Nelson is like leaving civilization.  From Dawson Creek to Fort Nelson, there are small towns and some larger like Fort St. John that boast huge supermarkets, coffee shops, and numerous other commercial businesses.  Mostly though everything involves either logging or pipeline.  To enter Fort Nelson, we crossed the Muskwa Bridge which is the lowest point on the Alaska Highway at an elevation of 1,000 feet.   Muskwa is an Athabaska term meaning ‘bear.’

As we left Fort Nelson, the traffic was much less on the road.  The beauty of the Canadian Rockies and bridges over frozen, but slowly thawing rivers became much of the scenery.  We began climbing Steamboat Mountain Pass with its magnificent views.  Last year it was snowing  on this pass, a semi-truck had broken down and we couldn’t seen 25 yards in front of us.  This year the trek wasn’t frightening as the sun shone on the snow-topped mountains and puffy clouds dotted the blue sky. 

From Steamboat we settled into a small valley until we began the continuous climb up Summit Mountain Pass.  Again, last year it was snowing and thought it appeared to be a pretty place, we couldn’t see clearly.  On our return trip, there were quite a few tourists and we missed the pullover and didn’t get any photo ops.

Today, Summit Lake was frozen solid, the campground had feet of snow covering every site and there were no tourists except us.  We found the pullover and enjoyed the view of evergreen trees stick out of the feet of snow on the hillsides.  Summit Lake is the highest point on the Alaska Highway at 4,250 feet. 

This mountain area is called Stone Mountain and there are usually Stone Sheep hanging out.  Both directions last year we saw sheep, but today they must have all been snoozing in the sunshine or romping in the waterfalls created by the snow melt.  We did however see a caribou standing next to a sign reading “Caribou”. 

We crossed the Tetsa River a few times and I love the metal bridges.  Most of them are blue like the Peace River Bridge, but a few are just silver metal with metal grating.  My husband hates when I try to take photos of the water below the grates which is why I try to do it. 

After a 9-hour drive (our goal is 6) we arrived at Toad River, an unincorporated stop.  The population is probably no more than 25.  There is a road maintenance camp, a post office, a Greyhound bus stop and an airstrip in Toad River.  Yet, in the wilderness of nowhere land in British Columbia, there is always scenery.  Our campsite had no snow, no mud and sat by the side of Reflection Lake and Folding Mountain.  The temperature was a balmy 60 when we arrived and gave us the perfect conditions for a walk around the campground and lake.

The Toad River Lodge is known for its hats.  They have over 11,000 baseball-type hats hanging everywhere.  

Tomorrow is Friday and we want to rest on the Shabbat.  We haven’t decided whether or not to stay here at Toad River or go another 70 miles and stay two nights at the Liard Hot Springs where we can truly relax and refresh during the Sabbath.

New word for the day: riparian zones are areas of beaver lodges

My daughter wanted to know if we saw any toads.  Yes, there was a plague of toads:

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©2018 Tentstake Ministries Publishing, all rights reserved.  No copying or reproducing of this article without crediting the author or Tentstake Ministries Publishing.